If the kettle button does not work or works, but not properly, then such a circumstance can seriously overshadow even the most beautiful morning. It is difficult to start the day without a cup of hot coffee or tea. But this is a lyric...
So, if the case, then the kettle button is a thermostat. Those. an element of an electrical circuit that is responsible for closing / opening this electrical circuit according to certain thermal (temperature) indicators. In the case of a kettle, the circuit is forced to close by pressing the button (the kettle turns on), and the circuit is opened as a result of exposure to hot steam on the thermostat (the kettle turns off).
A thermostat malfunction can be expressed in the following forms:
- The kettle does not turn on. Most likely the thermostat has failed. In this case, the kettle is repaired by replacing the thermostat with a new one.
- The kettle does not turn off. It is necessary to disassemble the kettle and inspect the thermostat. Depending on the state of the latter, the repair of the kettle is carried out by cleaning the contact groups of the thermostat or (in a more severe case) by replacing it.
- The kettle turns off after several attempts to bring the water to a boil. In this case, the repair consists in cleaning the thermostat contacts.
In any case, to solve any of the above problems, you will need to disassemble the kettle and remove the thermostat. For repairs, we will need the following tools: a Phillips or flat screwdriver (depending on the screws on the kettle) and a voltage tester.
- To get to the cause of the breakdown (thermostat), you need to unscrew the handle from the kettle itself. We remove the lining from the handle, which is mounted on latches or self-tapping screws. You need to be extremely careful and careful not to damage the kettle from the outside.
- This is where the button (thermostat) that we need is located. It is worth noting that a sufficiently large current flows through the contacts, namely 1500-2000W, depending on the characteristics of a particular model. This serves as a frequent burning of the contacts, which leads to a malfunction of the device, which is expressed in the fact that the kettle button does not work. Now you need to disassemble the thermostat to get to the contacts. This must be done carefully!
- To disassemble the button, you need to move the upper part to the left and slightly raise it. Then remove the top. As you can see, in this case, the contacts are completely burned out ...
Modern man lives in the age of information technology and great opportunities. Now there are practically no people who do not use equipment in their daily life, during the operation of which they apply a minimum amount of effort.
In contact with
Now everything has been brought to such a state that a person puts as little effort into anything as possible. This can include auto start of the car when in cold or rainy weather you have absolutely no reason to go outside, because you can start the engine directly from a warm and comfortable apartment. Or consider this example. If you have a special program installed, then you do not even need to get out of bed to turn off the lights, you just need to clap your hands or say something, and after your actions the room will be shrouded in darkness.
Let's talk about this equipment., how . I can say with confidence that most people have it at home, because it is more profitable to use it, it consumes little electricity and, moreover, heats water quite quickly. The gas fellow is inferior to him in everything.
All electrical appliances someday fail and break, and the electric kettle is no exception.
If you call the master, then the probability that he will arrive quickly is quite small. And, in general, it is quite expensive. We will tell you how to repair an electric kettle with your own hands.
There is quite a large number electric kettles ranging from volume to manufacturer. But all of them have the same scheme that allows them to do their job.
The principle of operation of the electric kettle
To begin with, let's take a look how, in general, the kettle works and what goes where. And it works like this:
Electric kettle device
Electric kettle malfunctions
If the device does not turn on
- There may be several problems, the electrical cable or plug may be damaged. No repairs are required here, you just need to “ring out” the plug contacts and the stand contacts. And if a break is found, then just replace the cord.
- And also, the problem may lie in the fact that from long-term work cinders form on the contacts, it is cleaned with fine sandpaper, but if they are completely melted, then you can safely replace them with new ones.
- Sometimes the problem may be in the internal switch. Contacts from heavy loads can melt over time. In this case, you either change the button, or at some points you can do the repair yourself. When disassembling the switch and examining it from the side, you can notice two contacts, and if there is carbon deposits on them, then use sandpaper or, for example, a nail file, to clean it.
Hull leak
If you notice that water is oozing from your electric kettle, then we have several ways of these solutions:
Heating element burnout
Mainly for this reason and electric kettles can break. It's all about scale, which was not removed in a timely manner and a large amount of it has accumulated. The element has overheated. Disassemble the unit described above. Check with a tester, using probes, the heater contacts. If the light on the device lights up or the device makes a sound, then everything is in order.
If the disc-shaped heating element has burned out, then your kettle will no longer work, since it is integral with the heating element. You can only replace the heating element of the open type.
Conclusion
Summing up, I would like to note that the unit for boiling water can be repaired either with your own hands or given it for repair. If you lack skills or are unsure in your power and you have no guarantees that everything will be done in the service center in at its best then just go to the store and buy a new electric kettle.
Electric kettles of traditional shape have a wide bottom, inherited from the old conventional kettles, which are heated on hotplates. Pitcher-shaped electric water heaters have a smaller base and take up less space on the table, but they are taller to accommodate the required amount of water. The side handle of a pitcher-shaped kettle will keep your hand from getting caught in the jet of steam from the spout or hole in the lid, but it puts more strain on your wrist when lifting a full kettle. Both types of teapots are made from stainless steel or lightweight, heat-resistant plastic.
The vast majority of electric kettles turn off automatically when the water boils, but you can still find a model with a manual switch off.
Before using a new kettle
Fill new kettle water and boil it. Rinse the kettle at least two times before use. The same applies to any kettle that has not been used for a relatively long time.
Kettle Care
Make sure the kettle is unplugged before cleaning. If the kettle is cold, you can wipe the outer surfaces with a damp cloth, but do not use abrasive detergents.
How does it work
The water is heated by an electric heating element installed inside the kettle. Typically, the heating element is attached to the housing with a threaded sleeve, or metal nuts, or screws that press it against a watertight seal. Depending on the model, these seals may be washers, gaskets, or bushings. They are a common cause of leaks. In the latest models, the disc heating element is hidden in the bottom of the water compartment, making it easier to clean and descale the kettle.
Fig.1
When the water boils, the steam passes through a small hole or tube onto a bimetal plate or disc, which is made to flex when heated, pressing a switch.
Almost all electric kettles are equipped with a safety device that turns off the appliance if the water boils away. The same device will work if someone forgets to pour water into the kettle before turning it on. In addition, the designs of kettles provide the ability to visually control the level of poured water from the outside.
The heating element is connected to the network with a short flexible wire or cord, equipped at one end with a power connector block with contact sockets, and at the other with a plug. The coiled power cord saves desk space and is less accessible to children.
Cordless kettles
The power connector block on the bottom of the cordless kettle is connected to the block on the base-stand, which is connected to the mains with a cord. This design allows you to take the kettle without removing the plug from the outlet. Some kettles are placed on the base in a certain position, but the latest models can be placed turned in any direction. The base usually has a place to store excess cord.
Rice. 2
Rice. 3
Filling the kettle
Filling the kettle with water is such a mundane thing that it doesn't seem like a big deal, but serious malfunctions and accidents can occur due to improper filling of the kettle.
Before pouring water into the kettle, make sure that the plug is removed from the socket, and also unplug the cord from the kettle.
Remove the cordless kettle from the base before filling with water. The minimum amount of water must necessarily cover the heating element - check this.
Pour at least a cup into a teapot with a disc heating element. Underfilling can cause the safety switch to trip and also damage the heating element. If you pour water into the kettle, it may turn off prematurely, and boiling water may splash out of the spout.
Make sure the cover is tightly closed, otherwise the circuit breaker may not work properly. When using a corded kettle, wait until the water stops bubbling and then remove the plug from the socket.
Electric kettle repair
First thing
Before you start troubleshooting a kettle, check the most obvious:
- Is the plug plugged in and is the kettle turned on?
- Is the power connector well inserted?
- Is the cordless kettle properly positioned on the base?
Typical disassembly order
Rice. four
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Rice. 9
Rice. ten
Rice. eleven
Rice. 12 Inspect the bimetallic plate for visible defects
Foreign particles in tea or coffee
Damaged filter
Modern teapots are equipped with mesh filters that do not let loose scale particles into the poured drink. A replacement can be found at a service workshop. Allow the water in the kettle to cool before removing the filter.
Filters should be easily removable for inspection and cleaning. If the filter starts to become clogged with scale particles, rinse it under running water using a nylon brush. Soak large deposits in descaling agent or regular vinegar overnight. Rinse well with water before use.
Rice. 13
The kettle heats up slowly
Scale on the element
A thick layer of scale on the heating element significantly increases the boiling time of water - and if the problem is not solved, the element may overheat and the protection switch will trip.
To remove such lime deposits inside the kettle, use a proprietary descaling agent (make sure it does not damage the plastic body). The procedure described below is typical of all-purpose descaling products sold in supermarkets, but always read the manufacturer's instructions for the product you are buying.
- Fill the kettle halfway with water and boil it; then turn off the kettle and remove the plug from the socket.
- Add the recommended amount of descaling agent and leave until bubbles stop forming.
Rice. fourteen Add a certain amount of descaling agent
- If deposits remain, turn on the kettle and try to heat it until the water sizzles, but do not let it boil.
- Drain the kettle, fill with new water and boil. Drain the water and rinse the kettle thoroughly. Too large deposits may require re-treatment.
Kettle won't turn off
Lid not closed properly
In order for the circuit breaker to operate, steam must be directed to the bimetal plate that controls the circuit breaker. If the lid is not closed properly, then the steam does not flow properly through the appropriate hole or tube.
Turn off the kettle and let the water cool down a little before putting the lid back on.
Steam outlet blocked
In older models of kettles, the steam outlet can become blocked with lime deposits and the steam will not be directed to the bimetal plate. In modern models, this hole is usually larger, and only a very large amount of scale that has come off the heating element can clog it.
Descale the kettle and check that the steam outlet is no longer blocked.
Faulty switch
If the kettle does not turn off automatically, then the bimetal plate may not be able to activate the switch. This can happen when the plate is damaged or when the switch pusher is stuck.
The switch of modern electric kettles of the classical type is structurally part of the fastening of the heating element, and therefore it is difficult to check and replace it. Have this switch checked by a specialist.
The switch on a pitcher will most likely be a separate piece mounted in the handle and can usually be inspected and tested by removing part of the handle cover. However, this can be tricky as it may use non-standard head screws or invisible latches. If at any stage the process seems too difficult, contact a specialist.
With the handle and switch cover removed, remove the plastic rocker located on top of the switch, marking the top and bottom for proper reassembly.
It may be necessary to dismantle a couple of parts and unscrew the mounting screw in order to raise the switch. Turn the switch over and inspect the bimetallic plate or disc and check for smooth movement of the pusher that controls the switch.
If the switch is mechanically OK, touch the probes to the switch contacts and turn it on to check its ability to pass current. This test can only be performed if it is possible to disconnect the wire from at least one contact of the switch. If the wires are crimped or soldered, then contact a specialist to check the switch.
If you find out that the switch is defective, buy a replacement and carefully reassemble the kettle, making sure you return all the parts and wires to their original position.
Test the kettle by connecting it to an RCD protected circuit and also check the ground.
The switch trips too soon.
Too sensitive protection or faulty switch
If the kettle starts to heat water again after about 15 minutes of cooling, but turns off before the water boils, have a technician check the automatic shutdown and switch.
The kettle is leaking
The leak must be checked immediately. If there is any doubt, then either discard it or give it to the service.
Faulty water level indicator
Check the plastic indicator for cracks or leaking connections. It may be necessary to remove the cover covering the switch to check for leakage from the inside. Buy and install a replacement.
Rice. fifteen
Loose heating element
A slight tightening of the screws or nuts holding a regular heating element to the kettle wall can stop the leak. Fill the kettle and place it on paper towels to check if there is any leakage. If yes, then contact the service center.
Rice. 16 Tighten the fixing screws of the heating element
Damaged gasket
Tightening the element mount will not fix a leak due to a cracked or damaged gasket. Replace gasket.
Rice. 17
Teapot bottom damage
Check a metal kettle for corrosion, especially near the seam between the bottom and body, and near the small feet. In such cases, it remains only to buy a new kettle.
Kettle does not heat water
Faulty plug or fuse
Perhaps the cord of the kettle is equipped with a non-separable plug. Try replacing the fuse and see if that fixes the problem.
No power
If other devices in the same circuit have stopped working, check the shield for a blown fuse or tripped RCD.
Break in the cord
If you suspect a defective cord, the easiest way out is to buy a new one from the parts store. The wires of the cord suitable for the base are most likely connected by crimping - in this case, it is better to leave its replacement to a specialist.
The circuit breaker does not stay in the on position
If the switch is so worn out that it does not stay in the on position, then either have it replaced by a workshop or purchase a new kettle.
Rice. eighteen A worn switch may not stay in the on position.
Protection is triggered
If it turned out that the kettle continued to work after the water had boiled away, then it is likely that the protection switch worked. Do not add water to the kettle until at least 10 minutes have passed, during which the safety switch should automatically turn on again.
If the kettle still does not work, then the heating element is probably damaged. On some older models, the protection after tripping must be activated manually - consult a service workshop.
Faulty heating element
Lime deposits - scale - on the heating element shorten its life. The most common elements can be bought at the parts store, but the hidden disk element is an integral part of the body design, in which case it is probably better to buy a new kettle.
Rice. 19 It usually makes sense to replace the heating element
Replacing even an ordinary element in modern kettle models means almost completely disassembling the device into its component parts. Care and patience will be required to ensure proper assembly and return of all parts to their original position, and you may need special materials and tools. So in general, it is probably worth changing the element in the workshop, especially since this can extend the life of the kettle by several years.
Faulty base
With many cordless kettles, it is generally not practical to check and repair the electrical connections on the bottom of the kettle or in the base. However, models that rotate on a base are often easy to check.
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Rice. 21 Look for burn marks at the power connections.
If you remove the bottom cover of the base, you can inspect the wires and connections and see possible mechanical damage and burn marks. It may be possible to carry out the same inspection of the power connection in the kettle itself, simply by removing the small cover on the underside of the appliance.
If the power connections in these places look suspicious and are made using conventional slip-on lugs, then repairing them will be relatively easy.
After replacing, you should lay all the wires in the same way as they originally passed, and carefully put the covers in place. Check the grounding and before resuming operation, check the kettle in an RCD protected circuit.
THE MAIN THING - SAFETY
- Before resuming use, fill the kettle and place it on paper towels for about 15 minutes to ensure there are no leaks. Then plug the plug into an RCD protected socket. Turn on the device, and if the RCD works, have the kettle checked by a specialist.
- When the kettle is boiling, keep your hands away from the steam outlet and spout.
Rice. 21 Keep your hands away from the steam outlet
- Before switching on, make sure that the water level is between the minimum and maximum levels.
Rice. 22 The water level must be between the minimum and maximum levels.
- Make sure the cord is connected correctly and do not remove it while the kettle is in operation.
- If the device is grounded, be sure to check its reliability with a tester. For the models described here, grounding was checked when one tester probe touched the ground contact of the plug, and the second probe touched the heating element inside the kettle (or the bottom with a hidden element). When carrying out this test, place the kettle on the base.
- Make sure the plug is connected correctly and the fuse rating is correct.
- Check the condition of the cord regularly.
- Keep kettle and cord out of reach of children.
- Keep cord away from burners or wet surfaces such as kitchen counters.
- Do not immerse the kettle or base in water. Ensure that all electrical contacts are dry.
- Do not use a leaking kettle.
- When assembling the instrument, ensure that all parts and wires are returned to their original position.
Rice. 23 Ensure that all parts and wires are returned to their original position.
- Always unplug the kettle before servicing the kettle.
- Always place the cordless kettle on the base before turning it on. Do not remove the kettle from the base until it has turned off.
Rice. 24 Do not remove the kettle from the base until it has turned off.
Good luck with the repair!
All the best, write© 2009
Teapots of a classical form differ in a wide bottom. Electric boilers have a bottom that is smaller in circumference. They require less space to place on the table, but they have more height. This is done so that the devices can hold more water. Despite the practicality of modern devices, kettle repair remains a popular service.
Most models of electric kettles today turn off on their own after boiling water. There are modifications with manual shutdown. Before the first use, it is recommended to fill the product with water and bring it to a boil. It is also necessary to wash the kettle at least 2 times before use. If the products have not been used for a long time, the same steps should be taken. Modern devices are made of heat-resistant plastic or stainless steel.
Before cleaning devices powered by electricity, you must disconnect them from the power supply. If they are cold, the outer surface is washed with a damp cloth. The use of abrasive substances is prohibited. Water heating is carried out due to the presence of a special element inside the kettle. It is attached to the body. Fixation is achieved with:
- threaded bushing;
- metal nuts;
- screws pressing the body against a seal impervious to water.
Often such seals provoke leaks. In the latest models on the market, the disc element is closed and located at the bottom of the water compartment. This is done to make cleaning the surfaces easier and easier. This measure also provides better descaling. In various models, seals are made in the form of:
- gaskets;
- washers;
- bushings.
As soon as the water boils, the steam enters the tube or small hole, passing to the disk or bimetallic plate. These components are designed in such a way that when heated, they bend, thus turning off the kettle.
A protective device is provided in almost all models. It is responsible for turning off the device after boiling water. This element is triggered if someone turns it on without pouring water first. In addition, modern products are designed in such a way that the user can visually control the amount of liquid poured.
To connect to the power supply, there is a cord or wire, the feature of which is flexibility. There is a plug on one end, and a power connector on the other. It has sockets that provide contact. A coiled power cord is included to save desk space. It is also good for families with small children, as it is less accessible for them.
This device has a base-stand on which the block and the power connector are connected. The connection to the mains is carried out thanks to the cord that is connected to this very stand. Due to this design, the kettle can be taken without removing the plug from the socket.
There are modifications that are installed in a fixed position on the base. However, modern products can be placed by turning in any direction. The base also has a special compartment for storing excess cord. Cordless kettles contain:
It would seem that there is nothing easier than filling a kettle with water. But if you do this process incorrectly, serious problems and even accidents can occur. Before pouring water, you must unplug the power plug and disconnect the cord from the kettle.
Cordless Models removed from the base. Be sure to see if the water covers the heating element. Pour at least one cup into the kettle. Underfilling can cause failure of individual components of the device. If there is a lot of liquid, it will turn off without bringing it to a boil. In parallel, boiling water will splash out.
A tight fitting lid is very important. Without it, the automatic shutdown device will not work. If the kettle is equipped with a cord, wait until the water stops boiling, and only then remove the plug from the outlet.
Before you start repairing electric kettles, it makes sense to check the basic things. For example, you should make sure that the kettle is turned on and that the plug is firmly plugged into the socket. The power connector must also be well inserted. In a cordless kettle, you need to see if it stands correctly on the base.
Disassembly of the device must be carried out according to the rules. The classic option is to remove the base cover, after which the fixing screws located below the handle and in its upper area are removed. Following this, the handle itself, the plastic rocker, and any parts that interfere with further manipulations are removed. Raise the switch and inspect the metal plate for defects.
First of all, you need to inspect the filter. In modern appliances, there are mesh products for cleaning the liquid from scale particles. These elements can be replaced in the workshop. The filter should not be removed until the water in the kettle has cooled. Normally, these products are removed from the surface easily and without much effort. When they get clogged with scale particles, you have to wash them with a nylon brush under running water.
If there are more serious deposits, you will have to soak the filter in a descaling agent or plain vinegar overnight. Before use, it must be thoroughly washed with water. You will also need a new filter as a replacement for the damaged one.
Some users notice that the water begins to boil more slowly than usual. The reason for this may be a thick layer of scale on the heating element. Gradually, it begins to overheat, which is why the protection switch trips ahead of time. To get rid of lime deposits, use an anti-scale agent that does not damage the plastic.
For this procedure, fill the kettle halfway with water, bring to a boil. Turn off, remove the plug from the socket. Add the amount indicated in the instructions to the water, leave until the bubbles on the surface disappear. This is usually enough to fix the problem. If deposits still remain, turn on the kettle and heat until the water sizzles. It cannot be brought to a boil. The liquid is drained, a new portion of water is collected and boiled. Drain again, rinse. If a lot of deposits have accumulated, you will have to re-treat.
The circuit breaker sometimes does not work when steam is not output properly. Normally, it is directed to a bimetallic plate. She is responsible for the functions of the switch. This happens if the lid is not closed properly. To fix the problem, simply turn off the device, allow the water to cool. After that, close the lid so that it fits snugly to the surface.
The situation when the steam outlet is blocked is often the case in older models of kettles. In this case, the steam is not directed through the corresponding hole or tube. In modern products, this area is different large sizes, and therefore, to clog it, a larger amount of scale is required, detached from the heating element. To eliminate such a malfunction, clean the kettle from scale, carefully inspect the steam outlet.
When absent automatic switch-off of the device The switch is probably the culprit. The bimetal plate cannot activate it. This happens when the switch pusher gets stuck or the plate itself is damaged. The classic types of switches act as a fastening component of the heating element. Therefore, checking such products and replacing them becomes a real problem. Accordingly, one cannot do without the help of a specialist in such cases.
The switch on the kettle-jug often plays the role of a separate part that is installed in the handle. Accordingly, you can inspect and check it by removing the casing. This can be tricky, as screws with non-standard latches and heads are sometimes used here. If the inspection of the element is accompanied by difficulties, it is better to shift this task to the shoulders of a professional.
After removing the switch cover and handles, remove the rocker located at the top of the switch. The upper and lower parts must be marked so that in the future it will be possible to correctly assemble the structure. Probably, the mounting screws, as well as several parts, will also have to be dismantled. This is required to lift the switch.
In the future, the object is turned over and the disk is examined along with the metal plate. They check how smoothly the stroke of the pusher responsible for controlling the switch works. If there is no mechanical damage, the probes touch the contacts. So check the ability to pass current. You can perform this procedure if the wire is disconnected from at least one of the contacts. If the wires are soldered, you will have to head to the workshop.
This problem is also not uncommon. This is not surprising, since electric kettles work for a long time and sometimes cannot withstand such voltage. Some part is weakening, which leads to a malfunction of the device.
To understand, it is necessary to study the scheme of the structure of the device. If you find a broken part, you should go to a specialized customer service center. Sometimes the water indicator is damaged. To determine the presence of such a malfunction, remove the cover that closes the switch. There is a plastic indicator here. It shows the presence of certain defects.
The appliance may leak due to a weakened heating element. Quite often, it is possible to fix it by tightening the nuts and screws that act as fasteners for a classic heating element. If the leak is not eliminated in this way, you will have to go to a specialized center. It employs experts who are well versed in problem solving.
When the gasket is damaged, then only tightening the fastening elements is indispensable. The gasket rarely provokes water leakage in the kettle, but if this happens, the damaged element must be replaced with a new one. This is the only way to resolve this issue.
There may be several reasons for this. It is likely that the plug supplied with the kettle cord is non-separable. You can try changing the fuse and see what results it gives. If all other devices powered by electricity have stopped working, you need to check the shield. It is worth making sure that the fuse has not blown. Sometimes this indicates the operation of the RCD machine.
When there is a cord malfunction and a break in the appliances, repairing electric kettles no longer makes sense. The easiest way is to go to the parts store and buy a new one. When the switch wears out a lot, it is practically not fixed in the on position. In this case, you can change it in the workshop or buy a new device for heating water.
When the kettle operates even after the water boils, the protection switch may be activated. It is recommended to leave the kettle without adding water for at least 10 minutes. During this time, the protection switch should turn on by itself. Damage to the heating element leads to the fact that the kettle does not work, despite the measures taken. Sometimes it depends on the model. On some old modifications, after the protection is triggered, you have to turn it on yourself.
Household appliances for cooking are widely used by mankind and the leader of them, perhaps, is the electric kettle. But the service life of any electrical appliance is not eternal and there comes a moment when you turn on the electric kettle, but the water does not heat up.
An electric kettle is one of the simplest household electrical appliances, and in many cases it is quite easy to repair it with your own hands, even if you do not have electrical engineering skills.
The principle of operation and the electrical circuit of the electric kettle
To repair an electric kettle, you need to know how it works. This is easy to do electrically. Although there are many models of kettles, they are all assembled according to the same electrical circuit, regardless of their appearance and capacity. There are some differences in the schemes, for example, the presence of a timer, but the basis of the scheme is still preserved.
The electric kettle works as follows. Through an electric plug, the mains voltage is supplied with a flexible cord to the XP1 contacts of the stand, on which the electric kettle is installed when water is heated. At the base of the kettle there are reciprocal contacts, which, when placed on the stand, are connected to the contacts on the stand.
Next, the current passes through the thermal switch S1, which is turned on using the button on the kettle and turns off automatically when the water boils. The thermal protection switch S2 is not directly involved in the operation, it is always on and only works if the body overheats, if the kettle is on without water. From the switches, voltage is supplied to the outputs of the tubular electric heater, in short - TEN. The HL lamp serves to indicate the on state.
The device of the nodes of the electric kettle
If the voltage of an electrical appliance is different from 220 V, for example, a 12 V car electric kettle, then you can calculate the current consumption using an online calculator.
Attention! When repairing an electric kettle and any other household electrical appliances included in the household network, extreme caution should be exercised. Touching an unprotected part of the human body to live wires and live parts can cause serious damage to health, up to cardiac arrest. Don't forget to unplug the kettle!
How to disassemble an electric kettle
To accurately determine the cause and eliminate the malfunction, it is necessary to remove the cover from the bottom of the kettle. When removing the cover, you may encounter some difficulties.
Usually the bottom cover is screwed to the base of the electric kettle with slotted screws for a Phillips screwdriver. Sometimes the heads of the self-tapping screws are recessed into the cover and closed with decorative caps, which must be removed with a sharp object to be able to unscrew the screws.
Some manufacturers, in order to complicate the possibility of self-repairing the electric kettle, install all or one of the screws with a slot under the shaft of a two-pronged fork screwdriver, which is called Spanne, as in this photograph. A Spanne type screwdriver is rarely available from home craftsmen. In the absence of such a screwdriver, you can unscrew the self-tapping screw using side cutters or tweezers.
If it is not possible to unscrew the screw in this way, then with your own hands you need to make a special screwdriver from a screwdriver with a flat sting, making a selection in the middle of it for the slot profile using a needle file.
When repairing, it sometimes happens that a plastic screw cannot be unscrewed. In this case, you can try to move the screw from its place in the direction of twisting. If it wobbles, it will unscrew easily.
If the self-tapping screw cannot be unscrewed in this way, then you need to heat it with a soldering iron by attaching a sting to the head. The plastic from the heat around the threads of the self-tapping screw will soften, and it will easily unscrew. The stand of the electric kettle is also disassembled using the same technology.
In some models of electric kettles, after unscrewing the screws, the cover can be easily removed. But more often it is additionally fixed around the entire perimeter with latches. There are models in which the lid is held only by latches.
The upper part of the photograph shows a lid with a latch, and the lower part shows the base of the kettle with a square hole into which the latch goes when the lid is in place. FROM right side base, one of the latches of the kettle handle got into the frame.
To release the latches, you have to carefully insert the flat tip of the screwdriver into different places where the cover and the body meet in search of the location of the latch.
When it was possible to remove one of the latches from the hole, the screwdriver is left in this place and the second screwdriver is looking for the next latch located nearby. When a couple of latches are released, the rest are no longer clamped, and the cover can be easily removed. Often removing the cover from the base is more difficult than fixing the problem.
The electric kettle does not heat water, the indicator light is on
By this behavior, it is easiest to determine the malfunction. As can be seen from the electrical diagram, the indicator light or backlight is connected directly to the terminals put on the terminals of the heating element. Therefore, if the light is on, and the kettle does not heat the water, then the cause of the malfunction lies in the poor contact of the terminals with the terminals of the heating element or the breakage of the spiral inside it.
Restoring contact in the slip-on terminals
After removing the lid from the base of the kettle and inspecting the connecting contacts, the cause of the breakdown became obvious. One of the contacts of the heating element was burned, and the terminal practically hung in the air.
On the second output of the heating element, the terminal was also in poor condition, all turned black along with the contact. It's amazing how an electric kettle could heat water before.
The terminal was all burned out, and its further use was impossible. The contact at the output of the heating element, although partially burned, did not require springy properties from it, and the remaining part after stripping will fully provide good contact.
There was no new terminal available and I had to use a used terminal. If there is nowhere to get a new terminal, then you can use the terminal from the stand, with which the ground wire (yellow-green wire) is connected. In the vast majority of apartments, the electrical wiring does not have a grounding conductor, and the removal of this terminal will not affect the operation of the kettle.
Before using the old terminal, it must be freed from the wires pressed into it. To do this, you need to clamp the terminal as in the photo with small pliers and a faceted awl, pressing and rotating it, push the antennae apart. The remaining wires will fall out and the terminal will be ready for reuse.
In the photo on the left you can see two wires that were pressed into the terminal. The supply voltage is supplied through a thick stranded wire, and through a thin single-core wire it is supplied to a neon light bulb or a water illumination system. These wires must be pushed into the terminal shank and crimped with pliers, after which the terminal will be ready for connection to the heating element.
At the next step, you need to polish the contact on the output of the heating element on both sides with fine sandpaper to a shine. After that, it remains to put the terminal on this contact, and reliable electrical contact will be provided.
After removing the terminal from the second contact, it turned out that both the terminal itself and the contact on the heating element were in good condition, only covered with oxide. After removing the black coating from the contact with sandpaper, it became like new. Before putting on the terminal for better contact, it was slightly squeezed with round-nose pliers. To remove oxides from the internal contact surfaces of the terminal, it must be put on and removed several times on the flat contact of the heating element.
On this repair can be considered completed. It remains, without installing the bottom cover in place, pour water into the kettle to the minimum mark and check its performance. If the kettle did not begin to heat the water, then most likely the spiral of the heating element is broken, but there may be other reasons. In order to continue further troubleshooting, you must first check the health of the heating element. It is impossible to replace the heating element in an electric kettle, since it is welded to its base. This kettle is beyond repair.
Repair of welded contacts
A glass electric kettle of the Polaris PWK 1719CGL model with a backlight was repaired, in which, when turned on, the indicator was on, but the water did not heat up. Such a malfunction indicated a violation of the contact at the connection point of the heating element leads.
The bottom cover was easily removed after unscrewing the three screws. I liked the build quality. The assumption was confirmed, in this model, the connection to the electrical circuit was made in an unconventional way using captive terminals, and by spot welding of a flat brass wire directly to the output of the heating element, one of which moved away. Obviously, due to a violation of technology, the conductor was poorly welded.
A slight mechanical impact by hand on the second flat wire also led to its falling off. The flat conductors were connected to the electric circuit of the kettle with the help of captive terminals. They were removed and the wires were brought under the terminals of the heating element from below, as shown in the photo.
For reliable contact of the flat conductors with the leads, they were pressed with screws using metal strips. The strips were taken from the Soviet power plug (they pressed the power wire) and the socket. When installing the slats, make sure that they do not touch the metal body of the kettle.
Checking the electric kettle showed its excellent work. Boiled water was beautifully illuminated with blue light thanks to LED backlight. I liked the design of the kettle, as well as the build quality. It is a pity that the welding of wires with the leads of the heating element turned out to be of poor quality. After the described repair, the electric kettle has been working flawlessly for several years.
The electric kettle does not heat water, the power indicator does not light up
Like any other electrical appliance, the electric kettle is connected to the mains using a C6 type electric plug, and the first thing to do if the kettle does not heat water is to make sure that the plug is working and there is voltage in the socket. You can check the outlet by connecting any electrical appliance to it, for example, a table lamp.
Repair of the contact group of the electric kettle with a stand
Since voltage is supplied to the electric kettle through the stand by touching its contacts with the contacts of the current collector, it is necessary to check the contact pairs for burning by external inspection. A sign of contact failure in the contact pair appears at an early stage, and manifests itself in the need to rotate the kettle on the stand in order for it to start heating water. To prevent more serious consequences, it is necessary to immediately clean the contacts from carbon deposits.
To check, you need to turn the kettle over and inspect the condition of the contact rings. In the photo of this kettle, the inner ring on the left side is oxidized and burned out by a few millimeters. To restore the contact surface, it is enough to clean it to a shine with sandpaper. The ring contact became bad due to insufficient pressure and oxidation of the contact located in the stand.
Flat contact plates in the contact node of the stand are fastened with screws or hooks. To remove a plate fixed with hooks, you must first remove the plastic insert with a screwdriver, and then, having picked up the hook with an awl, remove the plate.
After removing the cover from the stand and removing the contact plate, from which the current was supplied to the burnt ring, it became obvious that the end of the plate was bent, and the contact area was badly burned. The contact plate itself, although it darkened a little from heating, did not lose its springy properties. After restoring the shape of the plate and sanding the surface of the contact pad with sandpaper, the plate was installed in its original place.
After installing the contact plate, before screwing the bottom onto the stand, attach it to the bottom of the kettle and make sure that the contact plate moves a couple of millimeters, the contact fits in the center and does not cling to the walls of the stand. If everything is so, then you can screw the bottom to the stand and test the kettle after repair by boiling water in it.
But not always so lucky. There are contacts that are burned to such an extent that stripping and straightening the plate no longer helps and you have to replace part of the plate with a new one. The photo on the left shows a contact that burned almost to the ground. To replace it, you need to cut off the plate with contact to the first bend, clean the surface of the remaining plate to a shine with sandpaper and tin it with solder.
If there is an old electric kettle and the contacts in the stand are in good condition, then you can use them for repairs. A new replacement plate can also be taken from any powerful relay, such as a RPU. There are relays even with silver contacts.
A plate of the required length is bitten off from the relay, bent and tinned with solder. Next, the prepared contact plate is pressed against the pre-tinned stand plate, and the assembly is heated with a soldering iron. As a result, the contact element of the stand becomes no worse than a new one.
After installing the contacts in the stand, it is necessary, as after the previous repair, to check the accuracy of their positioning and freedom of movement. The photo shows a stand in which both contacts were replaced by soldering.
Kettle switch button repair
Another malfunction of electric kettles that I had to meet was a failure in the handle of the power control button.
The switch may not work due to the failure of the switching mechanism or the breakage of the key, which happened to the kettle that came to me for repair.
An autopsy showed that one of the axes, with which the key is fixed in the pen body, broke off. As you can see in the photo, the left axle is missing. At first glance, it seems that it is impossible to repair a key, but if you think about it, you can often find a way to restore a broken plastic part.
For repair, a curly brace shown in the photograph was bent from a copper wire with a diameter of 2 mm. The bracket can be made from aluminum wire and even from a nail. The diameter is selected based on the diameter of the axle seat in the kettle handle.
After the plastic hardened, the key was installed in the handle. The test showed that the button began to work no worse than before the breakdown. With daily use, the electric kettle has been working flawlessly for more than a year.
Kettle switch repair
The switch in an electric kettle is placed on the handle or at the base. The switch may not work due to burnt contacts, oxidation of the bimetallic disk (when water boils, water vapor enters it and the disk may rust over time), weakening of the flat spring, or wear of plastic parts.
The photo shows the electric kettle switch removed from the handle. It is small in size and works exactly the same way as any wall switch. The only difference is that it is able to automatically turn off when water boils.
By the way, the switch is a complete independent product and can be used for emergency shutdown of any electrical appliance when the temperature in the controlled area reaches more than 100°C.
Two stable positions of the switch are provided by a flat, curved spring. In the photo on the left, the kettle switch is in the upper off position. In the right picture in the lower position, when the electric kettle is turned on in the water heating mode. The switch engine is connected to the contacts and thus, when moving from one stable state to another, it closes or opens the contacts, thus turning the kettle on or off.
If the switch key is not fixed, then the flat spring is to blame. It may lose elasticity or pop out. To restore the circuit breaker, it is enough to remove the flat spring and slightly increase the radius of its arc (straighten it).
A bimetallic disc is installed at the bottom of the switch. When heated from steam, the tongue of the disk moves up, through the pusher it presses on the engine and it moves to the upper stable position, opens the contacts, thereby turning off the power supply to the heating element.
Another malfunction that occurs in electric kettles is the burnout of the contacts in the switch. Contacts can be placed directly next to the power key or away from it. In this case, the connection of the key with the contacts is carried out using plastic rods.
In the photo on the left, thermal protection contacts, they practically do not work and are always in perfect condition. On the right is the switch contacts, which open frequently and therefore always burn out. To clean them, you need to attach a strip of sandpaper to a narrow tool, for example, to a flat screwdriver blade and remove carbon deposits with reciprocating movements. You can also use a file.
In the handles of some models of electric kettles, closed-type switches are installed and it must be disassembled to clean the contacts.
To disassemble, you need to unscrew one screw and remove the switch from the handle. Next, drown two small latches that are located on the sides of the switch and pull the part with the contacts out of the case by the wires. Contacts will become available, and all that remains is to clean them in the manner described above. When disassembling, you should not lose a small pusher that connects the bimetallic plate with the moving part. Without it, the kettle will not turn off.
How to fix a water leak from an electric kettle
When repairing electric kettles, I had to deal with their leakage in the following places:
- at the junction of the measuring window with the body (repair is impractical, since sealing the crack with any adhesive composition gives a short effect);
- from a crack in a plastic case (cannot be repaired at home);
- at the junction of the metal bottom-disk with the flask of the kettle.
Therefore, when buying a new electric kettle, instead of a broken one due to a cracked body, I purchased a kettle with a glass flask. I hoped that the electric kettle would never give a fatal leak, since the glass case, with careful handling, is almost eternal, and the leak that occurred at the junction of the glass with a metal base can be successfully eliminated.
After several years of operation of a glass electric kettle, water began to appear on its contact pad after boiling water, which also dripped from the bottom. After each boil, the puddle of water on the platform increased, and drops from the bottom of the kettle dripped more and more often. I had to get it repaired.
To determine the location of the water leak, it was necessary, by unscrewing two screws in the upper part of the handle and three screws holding the lower part, to disassemble the electric kettle.
After disconnecting the bottom, to continue the repair, it remains only to remove the cap terminals from the contacts of the heating element and the overheating protection system. To avoid problems during assembly, before removing the terminals, you should remember or draw which of the terminals, which of the contacts was put on.
The glass flask was sealed to the bottom with silicone sealant. Upon careful inspection of the joint, it was found that at the plant, as a result of a violation of the gluing technology, air bubbles formed in several places in the silicone seam. Over time, water began to flow through one of them.
At first I wanted to seal with silicone only the water leaks, but I was not sure that the leak would not appear in a new place. Therefore, it was decided to detach the glass flask from the bottom, and glue them again.
Using a knife blade, the silicone was cut to the maximum possible depth, both along the inner seam and from the outside. After that, the glass flask was separated from the bottom with little effort.
Next, the remnants of the old silicone were completely removed from the mating surfaces with a knife, and then the surfaces to be glued were degreased with a solvent (acetone or alcohol is suitable). If there is no solvent at hand, then you can wash the surface with hot water with baking soda or laundry soap, and be sure to dry before gluing. In addition, the surface of the metal bottom was polished to a shine with sandpaper.
The bottom of the kettle is made of stainless steel, which was checked with a neodymium magnet - it was not attracted to the bottom. But to my surprise, in the place where there was a leak, a hole appeared, shown in the photograph. How a hole could form in stainless steel remains a mystery to me, perhaps this is a factory defect.
The hole was formed in the lower part of the pairing of the glass bulb and the bottom, and when glued together, it would be closed with a sealant. But I decided everything, using an electric soldering iron, close the hole with soft solder.
The choice of sealant for gluing
The surfaces of the parts of the electric kettle are prepared for gluing and it is time to choose a sealant, which should be harmless to human body, withstand temperatures up to +180°C and be flexible. Silicone sealants fully comply with the requirements.
The best of them is the RTV 118 Q food grade silicone adhesive sealant from the American manufacturer, which can withstand temperatures up to +260°C. But the price of an 82 ml tube of this sealant is comparable to the cost of a new electric kettle.
There is a silicone sealant of the Russian manufacturer VGO-1 on the market, which is also intended for sealing the joints of pipes for hot and cold water supply, which can withstand temperatures up to + 260 ° C. It is packaged in tubes of 300 ml, but it is also expensive and costs like half the price of a teapot. To seal the electric kettle, you need no more than 20 ml of silicone, so it is economically feasible to purchase a VGO-1 tube if you plan to use it for other work.
When choosing a silicone sealant, a reasonable question arose. Do manufacturers of electric kettles, and they are all made in China regardless of the brand, use expensive food grade silicone? The answer is obvious, they use the cheapest sealant for sealing. Therefore, I came to the conclusion that the simplest silicone sealant, in which there are no additives, is quite suitable. After several boilings of water, even if there are contraindicated substances in the sealant, they will all dissolve in water and the silicone will become safe for the human body.
At hand there was a universal construction silicone sealant Soudal, which I decided to use. There are no additives in its composition and the sealant withstands temperatures up to +180 ° C, which is quite enough for the heat resistance of the joint.
Gluing parts of an electric kettle
It remains to take the most crucial step - fill the bottom groove around the entire circumference with silicone sealant and insert a glass flask into it. Before applying the sealant, the surfaces must be degreased with alcohol or a solvent.
The bottom area mating with the glass flask was large, so after applying the sealant strip, I had to smear it with a screwdriver blade.
The glass flask was inserted into the bottom groove. Excess silicone squeezed out by the flask was removed with a rag soaked in soapy water. Then the seams, to give a beautiful look, are aligned with a finger dipped in soapy water. The picture shows the result of the work.
Checking the tightness of the connection of the kettle parts
Bulk silicone typically hardens at room temperature at a rate of 2 mm per day. Given that the depth of the seam in the glued electric kettle was about 10 mm, I had to put it aside for a week, and only after that carry out tests.
For testing, the electric kettle was connected to the mains disassembled, directly, without a protection and control system. To do this, terminals were put on the ends of the cord with a plug, which were then put on directly on the contacts of the heating element. The kettle has been placed in the working position, water has been poured into it and then the plug has been inserted into the socket. It is unacceptable to leave the electric kettle with such a switching scheme unattended.
According to the scheme, all Soviet electric kettles were previously connected directly and you had to wait until the water boiled and turn them off manually by removing the plug from the outlet.
A few minutes later the water boiled. There were no traces of water leaks, silicone sealant reliably sealed the junction of the parts. To prevent accidental harmful impurities from entering the water from the silicone seam, after assembling the kettle, three portions of water were boiled in it with its complete replacement.
Attention! It is unacceptable to pour cold water into any heated electric kettle, immediately after completely draining the boiled water from it. Due to thermal shock, microcracks may occur in the body of the kettle, from which water will begin to flow over time.
I note that this glass teapot, after the above repair, has been serving flawlessly for more than three years. I didn't even have to clean the contacts.
How to clean an electric kettle from rust
Over time, due to rusty metal water pipes, despite the transparency of the water flowing from the tap and even its subsequent filtration, rust deposits form on the inner surface of the electric kettle. Many do not like it, and obviously it does not bring health benefits.
The easiest and safest rust remover is citric acid, which is available at any grocery store.
To remove rust, you need to fill at least half the electric kettle with water and pour one sachet of citric acid into it.
Next, turn on the kettle and bring the water to a boil. Rust marks can be removed from the top edges and lid with a brush dipped in boiling water. Water turns brown after boiling. If there are several kettles in the house, then water can be poured into each of them and boiled again.
After boiling, let the kettle cool, drain the rusty water and rinse with clean water. As you can see in the photo, the electric kettle began to look like new, citric acid completely dissolved the rust.
As you can see, repairing an electric kettle with your own hands is not at all difficult, and if desired, any home master can do it.