The electric kettle does not work. Repair of electric kettles: do it yourself, video and diagram, how to fix the kettle, device and contact group

Drinking a cup of hot tea or coffee is always pleasant and healthy, especially when it's cold or raining outside. Some people cannot even imagine starting the day without a cup of invigorating coffee.
Well, heating water for these drinks will help Electric kettle, and without it in any way. Unless, of course, you have a gas stove at hand, or an expensive coffee maker.
Therefore, a breakdown of an electric kettle can negatively affect both the productivity of work and the quality of the whole life of such people.
It is worth noting that it is electric kettles that occupy the main, leading place, as devices for heating water in the workplace.
Therefore, it would be useful to know the main possible breakdowns of kettles and methods for their elimination.
One such kettle will be discussed in this article.

One fine day, this device stopped heating water, moreover, the power lever stubbornly did not want to become in the “on” position.

When trying to do this, it was simply thrown back to the “off” position, that is, it worked as a reverse spring. Also, when forcibly holding the lever in the on position, nothing happened. The heater did not warm up, the device operation indicator did not light up. The indicator in this type of teapot is blue. LED lights glass bowl.
The ringing of the cord and stand did not give anything, they turned out to be serviceable.

But this was not so important, because it was clear that the problem was 90% in the shutdown lever and its details. After all, it is his contacts that receive the main “strike” of the electric arc when the device is turned off.
So, you can start disassembling. To do this, it is enough to have a Phillips screwdriver.

We put the kettle on its side or bottom up and unscrew all the screws around the perimeter of the sole.

There are three screws inside the circle and four outside.

We fold the screws separately by type, so that when assembling they do not spoil the threads already cut by them in the body of the kettle, using the wrong screw.
Further, in order to get to the side screws, which also hold the bottom of the kettle, you need to use something sharp (screwdriver, knife), pick up the cover from below and slightly pull it towards you, thereby releasing the latches.

So, free access to these screws will be possible.
We take the pad slightly to the side, and unscrew the hidden fastening screws.
After, clasping the lower part of the kettle with your hand, carefully remove it by passing it through the “foot” of the switch.

There are no elements on the sole itself that require detachment, so it is removed and set aside.

Now, you can see the entire "stuffing" of our kettle, as well as get to the necessary components for diagnostics and repair.

Two pairs of thin wires depart from the electrical module, with which you should be as careful as possible. They power the glass bowl's two LEDs and can be severely damaged by frequent bending. Therefore, when removing and inspecting this module, it is advisable to try not to bend these places once again.

Next, look at the switch control knob. Several levers depart from it, which act on the contacts, thereby turning the latter on and off.

In any case, to get even further and make a thorough inspection of the contacts, it is necessary to unscrew the screws securing the module and remove it.

At the bottom of the module there are bimetallic plates that, in contact with the heating element, automatically disconnect the device from the mains when boiling or overheating.

A ceramic rod departs from the plates, it then presses on the contacts when the bimetal is deflected, thereby breaking the circuit.

The first plate disconnects the contact when boiling, the second - when the sole is very hot, for example, when there is no water in the kettle, or when the first plate breaks.

Carefully examining the first plates with contacts, it was noticed that they were burnt.

Also, when trying to connect the contacts, by turning on the control lever, it was noticed that this does not happen due to insufficient bending of the contact plates.
By doing this with a screwdriver directly, it became clear that the movable plates became immobile, due to the melted plastic, which drained, formed a bulge between the lower and upper contacts, preventing them from connecting.

Using a thin screwdriver, the bulge was removed, and the contacts were cleaned with a thin knife.

To make it convenient to clean, you can bite off the plastic edge opposite the contacts with wire cutters. This will enable further cleaning without much effort and interference.

If the movable contact, when turned on, still does not connect to the fixed one, you need to slightly lower the second one. It will be convenient to do this by first removing the bimetallic plate, moving it slightly to the side.

Next, put the module on a flat surface and pointing the tip of a screwdriver on top of the contact, make a few short blows with your hand on its handle.

After that, we check the short circuit when turned on with a tester.
By the way, this can be done by connecting the ends of the tester to two ring contacts on the connecting socket. The center pin is the "ground" or body of the kettle. When the switch is on and the working heater is on, these contacts should ring short.

If the device does not show the connection, repeat the bending procedure again until there is a reliable closure of the contacts.
Do not hit the screwdriver handle hard with a hammer, otherwise you can simply break the plate and lose your last hope of bringing the kettle back to life.
At the moment of bending, you can pull out the ceramic rod so as not to accidentally break it. After, you need to insert it back and install the plate.
Now, we fasten the module to the sole of the heater and place the kettle on the stand. Having typed some water into the kettle, plug the plug into the socket, and the switch to the “on” position.

If everything is done correctly, the water boils under the blue decorative lighting.

Next, turn off the plug and thread the glass lever through the cutout in the case, put the plastic sole in its place.

When installing, a very important point is the correct alignment of these two parts. As shown in the photo, when the lower part is supposedly inserted, you need to press your finger on the notch at the top of the lever.

There is a click, and the two parts dock correctly and finally. If this is not done, at the end of the assembly, the power button will not turn on again, because the lever system will rest against the sole and prevent it from moving. You will have to disassemble the entire kettle again, which is very undesirable.
Now, install the handle.
The photo shows that the device is working, and the water boils.

Also, the kettle should turn itself off. And so it happens.

We can assume that the repair was successful and this wonderful device will please its owners with an invigorating, warming drink more than once.

Often there is such an unpleasant situation as the failure of the kettle, and at the most inopportune moment. You can hand over a failed electrical appliance for repair, but it will take time. Also, there may not be free masters and you will have to do without a kettle for even longer. Or, perhaps, the cause of the failure could be a minor easily fixable malfunction - then it would be a pity for the funds thrown out for repairs.

In general, why not try to repair it yourself, while saving time and money? In this article, we will give recommendations that will help determine the malfunction of the electric kettle and, if possible, eliminate it.

The electrical circuit and the principle of operation of the electric kettle

Most electric kettles, regardless of their cost, have a similar design. For clarity, here is a typical diagram of an electric kettle:

In order to find a malfunction of an electric kettle, you need to understand the principle of its operation. Let us briefly describe the principle of operation according to the above diagram, showing clearly all the elements of the circuit. Electricity from the household network comes through the plug and wire to the stand.

Further, the current goes from the stand to the kettle through a special contact part. Directly in the kettle, the ground conductor is connected to the metal parts of the kettle. The neutral and phase conductors in a special node are brought to terminals 1 and 2 (see diagram).

In the same node is thermal protection- thermostat. The electrical diagram shows that the thermal relay is in the break of the phase conductor.

Thermal protection is used to protect the kettle from damage if the kettle is turned on without water, or if the kettle lid is open and it works for a long time without turning off automatically. In normal mode, the thermostat contact is in the closed state. It opens in case of excessive overheating for the above reasons.

The kettle on button allows you to manually turn the kettle on and off, it has a bimetallic plate, which, when a certain temperature is reached, acts to turn off the button - that is, when water boils, this button automatically turns off the kettle.

Parallel to the conclusions of the heating element of the kettle, an indicator lamp or backlight is connected - depending on the design features of the electric kettle. It can be a regular lamp or an LED backlight connected via a power driver.

So let's start troubleshooting. First of all, you need to make sure that the reason for the inoperability of the kettle was not the operation of the above thermal protection. If there was a trip, then it is necessary to wait until the protection returns to its original state - that is, until the contacts close. If there was no protection operation, we proceed to troubleshooting.

Do not rush to disassemble the kettle. Very often, the reason why the kettle does not heat up is the lack of contact between the contact elements of the electric kettle and the stand, or a broken contact in the power cord and plug.

We unscrew the screws on the stand and remove the cover. We take a multimeter, and check the integrity of the cord from the plug to the contacts. In inexpensive electric kettles, in order to save money, the manufacturer puts a cord with a cross section that is lower than that allowed for the load of an electric kettle.

For example, for a kettle with a power of 2 kW, a power wire with a cross section of 0.75 square meters is installed. mm, and in fact there may be an even smaller cross section. During the operation of the electric kettle, such a wire heats up, which ultimately can lead to damage or burnout at the point of connection to the plug.

If the dialing showed a wire break, then you need to purchase a new wire of a larger cross section, which corresponds to the load of the kettle. For example, for a 2 kW kettle, a wire with a cross section of 1-1.5 square meters will be enough. mm. You also need to purchase a new plug - a Euro plug designed for a load of 16 A will do.

Regardless of whether this is the reason why the kettle does not work in this moment, you should clean the contacts from carbon deposits and bend them a little, ensuring greater rigidity of contact with the electric kettle.

You should put the stand on the kettle, while paying attention to the contacts - they should bend when installing the kettle on the stand. If the contact does not press, then it has weakened, and it needs to be slightly bent up. It is impossible to strongly bend the contacts, so as not to dislodge them from their place.

We assemble the stand and check the performance of the electric kettle. If the kettle still does not work, then we proceed directly to troubleshooting inside the electric kettle.

Checking the performance of the heating element of the electric kettle

A situation is possible when the indicator light (backlight) of the kettle is on, but the kettle itself does not heat. In this case, there are two reasons - the heating element burned out or the contact at the connection point to the heating element is broken. Remove the kettle lid by unscrewing a few screws. Separate types of teapots, including the one discussed in this article, in addition to screws, have special grooves that hold the teapot lid.

Without the experience of opening electrical appliances, you can damage the electric kettle by adding another one to the existing malfunction. To remove the cover, bend it inwards. By inserting a screwdriver into the existing holes - first into holes 1 and 2, then into 3 and 4. By bending the cover inward, the grooves for attaching the cover come out and it is removed.

Back to troubleshooting. We check the integrity of the circuits inside the kettle. Next, we check the integrity of the heating element by sliding the insulation to access the conclusions. We set the multimeter to the resistance measurement mode to the smallest limit - in this case 200 Ohms and measure the resistance of the heating element.

The device showed a resistance of 24.1 ohms, which indicates that the heater is in good condition. A burnt-out heating element shows a very high resistance - the multimeter will show a few MΩ. You can also check the heating element with a multimeter in continuity mode.

With a working heating element, the device will show a small voltage drop, and if the heating element is faulty, the device will show a break - one.

If it became necessary to remove the terminals, then they should not be torn off, as is often done out of ignorance. A torn terminal, when put back in place, will not provide normal contact and the next time it will cause the kettle to fail.

The terminals are easily removed if you lightly push a sharp object into the hole, while simultaneously pulling it together. If there is insulation on the terminal, it must be moved before removing the terminal.

A normally removed terminal is also easy to put back on. But in any case, it is necessary to check the reliability of the contact, and if the terminal is not tight enough, then it should be removed and slightly tightened with pliers.

If the check showed that the heating element is faulty, then in this case it is necessary to consider whether it is advisable to purchase a new heating element. If the kettle is inexpensive, then installing a new heating element will cost as much as a new kettle.

If the heating element is working, but the kettle does not heat, then the integrity of other circuits should be checked. It is necessary to check whether voltage is supplied from the contact part of the kettle to terminals 1 and 2.

We call with a multimeter as shown in the photo. If one contact rings and the other does not, then this indicates that the thermal relay contact, which was mentioned at the beginning of the article, is open. There are cases of spontaneous opening of protection contacts.

If there were no signs of overheating, the kettle did not turn on without water, but the thermal protection contact is open, then this indicates a malfunction of this element. You can try to bend the bimetallic plate (or plates, depending on the design of the electric kettle), ensuring that the protection contact is closed.

If the problem cannot be resolved, it is recommended to completely replace this unit. It is also possible to turn on the circuit directly, without thermal protection, by forcibly closing the contacts in this node. But at the same time, one should be aware of the consequences of the lack of thermal protection.

If the kettle is turned on without water in the absence of protection, the heating element will heat up until it burns out. Doing so may ignite the kettle. To avoid negative consequences do not operate the kettle without a thermostat.

Another reason for the inoperability of the electric kettle may be the breakdown of the kettle power button. The inoperability of the button is determined by dialing between terminal 1 of the output of heating element 3 (see diagram).

If, when the button is on, the device shows a break between contacts 1 and 3, then this indicates that the button is faulty or the integrity of the contact at the point of connection to the button is broken. It is necessary to open a part of the body of the electric kettle on the handle, gaining access to the button and, depending on the malfunction, restore the integrity of the contact or replace the button.

There are also separate types of electric kettles with built-in electronic devices that provide the functions of a timer, adjusting the temperature of water heating. If a malfunction of such a kettle occurs, you can check the nodes discussed in this article - heating elements, contacts, connecting conductors. But if the cause of its malfunction is the failure of electronic components, then to eliminate such a malfunction, you need to have the appropriate skills and qualifications - therefore, it is better to hand over such a kettle for repair to an experienced specialist.

Before using a new kettle

Fill a new kettle with water and boil it. Rinse the kettle at least two times before use. The same applies to any kettle that has not been used for a relatively long time.

Kettle care

Make sure the kettle is unplugged before cleaning. If the kettle is cold, you can wipe the outer surfaces with a damp cloth, but do not use abrasive detergents.

How does it work

The water is heated by an electric heating element installed inside the kettle. Typically, the heating element is attached to the housing with a threaded sleeve, or metal nuts, or screws that press it against a watertight seal. Depending on the model, these seals may be washers, gaskets, or bushings. They are a common cause of leaks. In the latest models, the disc heating element is hidden in the bottom of the water compartment, making it easier to clean and descale the kettle.

Fig.1

When the water boils, the steam passes through a small hole or tube onto a bimetal plate or disc, which is made to flex when heated, pressing the switch.

Almost all electric kettles are equipped with a safety device that turns off the appliance if the water boils away. The same device will work if someone forgets to pour water into the kettle before turning it on. In addition, the designs of kettles provide the ability to visually control the level of poured water from the outside.

The heating element is connected to the network with a short flexible wire or cord, equipped at one end with a power connector block with contact sockets, and at the other with a plug. The coiled power cord saves desk space and is less accessible to children.

Cordless kettles

The power connector block on the bottom of the cordless kettle is connected to the block on the base-stand, which is connected to the mains with a cord. This design allows you to take the kettle without removing the plug from the outlet. Some kettles are placed on the base in a certain position, but the latest models can be placed turned in any direction. The base usually has a place to store excess cord.

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Filling the kettle

Filling the kettle with water is such a mundane thing that it doesn't seem like a big deal, but serious malfunctions and accidents can occur due to improper filling of the kettle.

Before pouring water into the kettle, make sure that the plug is removed from the socket, and also unplug the cord from the kettle.

Remove the cordless kettle from the base before filling with water. The minimum amount of water must necessarily cover the heating element - check this.

Pour at least a cup into a teapot with a disc heating element. Underfilling can cause the safety switch to trip and also damage the heating element. If you pour water into the kettle, it may turn off prematurely, and boiling water may splash out of the spout.

Make sure the cover is tightly closed, otherwise the circuit breaker may not work properly. When using a corded kettle, wait until the water stops bubbling and then remove the plug from the outlet.

Electric kettle repair

First thing

Before you start troubleshooting a kettle, check the most obvious:

Is the plug plugged in and is the kettle turned on?
Is the power plug well inserted?
Is the cordless kettle properly positioned on the base?

Typical disassembly order

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Rice. 12 Inspect the bimetallic plate for visible defects

Foreign particles in tea or coffee

Damaged filter

Modern teapots are equipped with mesh filters that do not let loose scale particles into the poured drink. A replacement can be found at a service workshop. Allow the water in the kettle to cool before removing the filter.

Filters should be easily removable for inspection and cleaning. If the filter starts to become clogged with scale particles, rinse it under running water using a nylon brush. Soak large deposits in descaling agent or regular vinegar overnight. Rinse well with water before use.

Rice. 13

The kettle heats up slowly

Scale on the element

A thick layer of scale on the heating element significantly increases the boiling time of water - and if the problem is not solved, the element may overheat and the protection switch will trip.

To remove such lime deposits inside the kettle, use a proprietary descaling agent (make sure it does not damage the plastic body). The following procedure is typical of all-purpose descaling products sold in supermarkets, but always read the manufacturer's instructions for the product you are buying.

Fill the kettle halfway with water and boil it; then turn off the kettle and remove the plug from the socket.
Add the recommended amount of descaling agent and leave until bubbles stop forming.

Rice. fourteen Add a certain amount of descaling agent

If deposits remain, turn on the kettle and try to heat it until the water sizzles, but do not let it boil.
Drain the kettle, fill with new water and boil. Drain the water and rinse the kettle thoroughly. Too large deposits may require re-treatment.

Kettle won't turn off

Lid not closed properly

In order for the circuit breaker to operate, steam must be directed to the bimetal plate that controls the circuit breaker. If the lid is not closed properly, then the steam does not flow properly through the appropriate hole or tube.

Turn off the kettle and let the water cool down a little before putting the lid back on.

Steam outlet blocked

In older models of kettles, the steam outlet can become blocked with lime deposits and the steam will not be directed to the bimetal plate. In modern models, this hole is usually larger, and only a very large amount of scale that has come off the heating element can clog it.

Descale the kettle and check that the steam outlet is no longer blocked.

Faulty switch

If the kettle does not turn off automatically, then the bimetal plate may not be able to activate the switch. This can happen when the plate is damaged or when the switch pusher is stuck.

The switch of modern electric kettles of the classical type is structurally part of the fastening of the heating element, and therefore it is difficult to check and replace it. Have this switch checked by a specialist.

The switch on a pitcher will most likely be a separate piece mounted in the handle and can usually be inspected and tested by removing part of the handle cover. However, this can be tricky as it may use non-standard head screws or invisible latches. If at any stage the process seems too difficult, contact a specialist.

With the handle and switch cover removed, remove the plastic rocker located on top of the switch, marking the top and bottom for proper reassembly.

It may be necessary to dismantle a couple of parts and unscrew the mounting screw in order to raise the switch. Turn the switch over and inspect the bimetallic plate or disc and check for smooth movement of the pusher that controls the switch.

If the switch is mechanically OK, touch the switch contacts with the probes and turn it on to check its ability to pass current. This test can only be performed if it is possible to disconnect the wire from at least one contact of the switch. If the wires are crimped or soldered, then contact a specialist to check the switch.

If you find out that the switch is defective, buy a replacement and carefully reassemble the kettle, making sure you return all the parts and wires to their original position.

Test the kettle by connecting it to an RCD protected circuit and also check the ground.

The switch trips too soon.

Too sensitive protection or faulty switch

If the kettle starts to heat water again after cooling for about 15 minutes, but turns off before the water boils, have a technician check the automatic shutdown and switch.

The kettle is leaking

The leak must be checked immediately. If there is any doubt, then either discard it or give it to the service.

Faulty water level indicator

Check the plastic indicator for cracks or leaking connections. It may be necessary to remove the cover covering the switch to check for leakage from the inside. Buy and install a replacement.

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Loose heating element

A slight tightening of the screws or nuts holding a regular heating element to the kettle wall can stop the leak. Fill the kettle and place it on paper towels to check if there is any leakage. If yes, then contact the service center.

Rice. 16 Tighten the fixing screws of the heating element

Damaged gasket

Tightening the element mount will not fix a leak due to a cracked or damaged gasket. Replace gasket.

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Teapot bottom damage

Check a metal kettle for corrosion, especially near the seam between the bottom and body, and near the small feet. In such cases, it remains only to buy a new kettle.

Kettle does not heat water

Faulty plug or fuse

Perhaps the cord of the kettle is equipped with a non-separable plug. Try replacing the fuse and see if that fixes the problem.

No power supply

If other devices in the same circuit have stopped working, check the shield for a blown fuse or tripped RCD.

Break in the cord

If you suspect a defective cord, the easiest way out is to buy a new one from the parts store. The wires of the cord suitable for the base are most likely connected by crimping - in this case, it is better to leave its replacement to a specialist.

The circuit breaker does not stay in the on position

If the switch is so worn out that it does not lock into the on position, then either have it replaced by a workshop or purchase a new kettle.

Rice. eighteen A worn switch may not stay in the on position.

Protection is triggered

If it turned out that the kettle continued to work after the water had boiled away, then it is likely that the protection switch worked. Do not add water to the kettle until at least 10 minutes have passed, during which the safety switch should automatically turn on again.

If the kettle still does not work, then the heating element is probably damaged. On some older models, the protection after tripping must be activated manually - consult a service workshop.

Faulty heating element

Lime deposits - scale - on the heating element shorten its life. The most common elements can be bought at the parts store, but the hidden disk element is an integral part of the body design, in which case it is probably better to buy a new kettle.

Rice. 19 It usually makes sense to replace the heating element

Replacing even an ordinary element in modern kettle models means almost completely disassembling the device into its component parts. Care and patience will be required to ensure proper assembly and return of all parts to their original position, and you may need special materials and tools. So in general, it is probably worth changing the element in the workshop, especially since this can extend the life of the kettle by several years.

Faulty base

With many cordless kettles, it is generally not practical to check and repair the electrical connections on the bottom of the kettle or in the base. However, models that rotate on a base are often easy to check.

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Rice. 21 Look for burn marks at the power connections.

If you remove the bottom cover of the base, you can inspect the wires and connections and see possible mechanical damage and burn marks. It may be possible to carry out the same inspection of the power connection in the kettle itself, simply by removing the small cover on the bottom of the appliance.

If the power connections in these places look suspicious and are made using conventional slip-on lugs, then repairing them will be relatively easy.

After replacing, you should lay all the wires in the same way as they originally passed, and carefully put the covers in place. Check the grounding and before resuming operation, check the kettle in an RCD protected circuit.

THE MAIN THING - SAFETY

Before resuming use, fill the kettle and place it on paper towels for about 15 minutes to ensure there are no leaks. Then plug the plug into an RCD protected socket. Turn on the device, and if the RCD works, have the kettle checked by a specialist.
When the kettle is boiling, keep your hands away from the steam outlet and spout.

Rice. 21 Keep your hands away from the steam outlet

Before switching on, make sure that the water level is between the minimum and maximum levels.

Rice. 22 The water level must be between the minimum and maximum levels.

Make sure the cord is connected correctly and do not remove it while the kettle is in operation.
If the device is grounded, be sure to check its reliability with a tester. For the models described here, grounding was checked when one tester probe touched the ground contact of the plug, and the second probe touched the heating element inside the kettle (or the bottom with a hidden element). When carrying out this test, place the kettle on the base.
Make sure the plug is connected correctly and the fuse rating is correct.
Check the condition of the cord regularly.
Keep kettle and cord out of reach of children.
Keep cord away from burners or wet surfaces such as kitchen counters.
Do not immerse the kettle or base in water. Ensure that all electrical contacts are dry.
Do not use a leaking kettle.
When assembling the instrument, ensure that all parts and wires are returned to their original position.

Rice. 23 Ensure that all parts and wires are returned to their original position.

Always unplug the kettle before servicing the kettle.
Always place the cordless kettle on the base before turning it on. Do not remove the kettle from the base until it has turned off.

Rice. 24 Do not remove the kettle from the base until it has turned off.

Good luck with the repair!

An electric kettle has become an indispensable attribute of any kitchen and is a sales leader in comparison with other household appliances. This appliance is widely used both at home, in the kitchen and in the office. But unfortunately, like any electrical appliance, the kettle fails after some time of operation. Since the price of this water heater is not too high, it is easier to buy a new one than to repair it. But if you consider yourself a home master, or a device for boiling water is dear to you as a memory, you can try to repair the electric kettle with your own hands.

An electric kettle works on a fairly simple principle, regardless of whether it is an expensive model or a budget one. At the bottom of the device is a heating element connected to a thermostat, consisting of bimetal plate. A tubular heater, when an electric current is applied to it, heats the liquid to a boil. When steam is formed during the boiling process, it passes through a special channel to the thermostat, as a result of which the latter turns off the power supply.

If you look at the scheme of operation of the device, you can see that it works on the principle of an iron, and does not differ in the complexity of the design. But before you repair the electric kettle, there are always difficulties with case disassembly, since the latches (holding the handle) are located differently for different models of units, in addition, the mounting screws can be with a cap for a special screwdriver.

Typical malfunctions

An electric kettle is a simple device, which contains few elements that can fail. However, there are still common problems, among which are the following:

slow heating of the liquid;
the device turns off prematurely;
the kettle does not turn off;
the device does not turn on;
burnout of the heating element;
water is leaking from the body.

Slow liquid heating

If you notice that the kettle does not heat water quickly, then pay attention to the condition of the heating element. Thick layer of scale on it, formed due to insufficiently good maintenance of the unit, has poor thermal conductivity, which takes more time to heat the water. If the scale is not removed, the heating element may burn out.

In addition, the entire contact group of the device suffers from overheating, as a result of which the contacts melt or burn.

To get rid of scale, you can use the usual citric acid sold in stores. It is enough to pour 1-2 sachets into the tank citric acid(20 grams each), bring it to a boil and leave the heated solution in a container for 30 minutes. After that, the container must be thoroughly rinsed with running water to remove scale residues. If necessary, the procedure can be repeated.

Device turns off prematurely

This behavior of the electric water heater is explained by the fact that the device can be turned off due to scale formed on the heating element. Since the heating element has a fuse against overheating, it works and breaks the electrical network. To eliminate the malfunction, it is necessary to descale the heaters.

Kettle won't turn off

During the boiling of water in the tank of the apparatus, the steam must be collected under the lid and sent through a special channel to the thermostat. If the lid is not closed tightly, then this does not happen, and the appliance will work without shutting down. If everything is in order with the lid, check that the steam hole, which is located on the side of the handle, is not contaminated with scale. In the case when everything is in order with the hole, it can be assumed that the kettle does not turn off due to thermostat breakdowns.

The thermostat at the electric kettle is located at the bottom of the case, and in order to get to it for replacement, you will have to disassemble the device completely.

For example, a regular budget device was taken, which does not differ in design from more expensive models - an electric kettle Vitek, Tefal, Polaris, Scarlett and others. By the way, in this model, as well as in the Vitek VT-7009(TR) device, the container is made of heat resistant glass. So, let's analyze the unit according to the following algorithm.

Kettle repair should begin with unplugging it from the mains. Next, remove the device from the stand (base) and unscrew all the screws located on its bottom panel.
After that, it is necessary with special care to pry off the plastic cover located on the handle using a thin screwdriver. This should be done carefully because in different models of devices, the latches can be located in different places, and they can be easily broken.
After removing the cover, you can see the mounting screws. They also need to be removed.
After unscrewing all the fasteners, applying a little effort, disconnect the handle with the cover from the body.
Next, disconnect the housing from the bottom of the unit.
At the bottom of the case you will see all the main elements of the device: a contact group, a thermal relay and a heating element.
pay attention to bimetallic plate(on the right in the picture). If damage is visible on it or it has a worn out appearance, then this may be the reason that the appliance has stopped turning off. The plate is not repaired, but replaced with a new one.

But how to disassemble the Bosch kettle, if when unscrewing all the screws on the bottom, it is not removed? Those who disassembled such a device encountered difficulties that often ended in a breakdown of the device. Since the process is quite difficult to describe, it is better to watch a video on this topic.

The device does not turn on

The reasons why your boiler does not turn on can be different.

Faulty electrical cord and plug. To do this, you will need to “ring out” the cord using the tester, touching the probes to the plug contacts and the contacts on the stand (base). If a break is found, replace the cord with a new one.
Bad contact in the stand(base). From prolonged operation, the contacts can burn, which is why their conductivity is disturbed. If burns have formed on the contacts, they can be cleaned using fine sandpaper. But in the case when they are melted, they will need to be completely replaced.
Faulty internal switch in the device. Since the switch has to experience fairly large loads (from 1500 to 2000 W), its contacts may melt over time. This may cause the machine to not work. The switch is located at the bottom of the handle, and in the event of a malfunction, it looks as shown in the figure below.

In this case, the button must be replaced. But there is a button malfunction, in which you can fix the kettle with your own hands without replacing it. If you look at the button from the side, you can see 2 contacts that close in the “on” position. If on them soot is formed, the device will not turn on.

To remove carbon deposits, you can use fine-grained sandpaper, a nail file, or a thin file. To make it more convenient to do the stripping, you will need a small “refinement” of the button, namely, removing the sides with the help of wire cutters.

Another reason that the device does not want to work can be called malfunction of the mechanical power button. This breakdown is most often found in the Tefal vitesse model, since plastic rails are built into the handle of the appliance, which transmit translational movement from the external button to the internal one located at the bottom of the unit.

After this part breaks, turning on the Tefal kettle becomes impossible. To understand in more detail how to repair an element that has broken, you can watch the video, which discusses one original way defect fixes.

Heating element burnout

When repairing electric kettles, both old models and newer ones, the most common failure is the burnout of the heating element. The problem with heating elements arises, first of all, due to their overheating due to untimely descaling.

Before repairing a kettle with a disc heater or a heating element in the form of a spiral, it is necessary to disassemble the unit in the manner described above. After that, take the tester and connect the probes of the device to the output contacts of the heater. If the lamp lights up on the device, or it makes a sound, then the heating element can be considered serviceable.

How to check the heating element if no measuring device? It turns out it's very simple. It is necessary to connect zero from the mains to one contact of the heater, and the phase to the other. Next, insert a 220 bulb into the socket, from which 2 insulated wires are removed. Touch one stripped end of the wire to one contact of the heater, and the other to the opposite. If the light is on, then the heating element is working.

If it turns out that the disk heater has burned out, then it cannot be replaced, since it is one with the bottom of the appliance, such as in the Scarlett kettle, or Vitek VT-7009 (TR). Therefore, you will have to buy a new unit. Only open-type heater is subject to replacement.

water flowing

If you notice that water is flowing (leaking) from the reservoir of the device, then it is recommended to use such an apparatus for a while until scale forms in the microcracks, which can block the leakage of liquid. If this does not help, then you will have to buy a new “boiler” if the warranty period has expired.

Another reason that the reservoir is leaking may be loose connection of the electric heater with the body of the device(if the heating element is open type). In this case, you can tighten the fasteners holding it. If this does not help, then you will have to remove the heating element and change the rubber seal that has worn out.

Thus, we can summarize: in some cases it is quite possible to repair a unit for boiling water on your own. But if you lack certain skills in the repair of household appliances, then the best option will buy a new kettle. Repair in a service center, from a financial point of view, does not justify itself, and there is no guarantee that the breakdown will not happen again.

An electric kettle is the most common household appliance that every family probably has today. Its popularity is due to the speed of boiling water, which is superior to other heating methods. Therefore, these simple devices have won a special place for themselves not only in the household, but also in offices and other workplaces where you can enjoy hot tea or coffee during a break. But, like any other technique, an electric kettle can also fail, and its owners will probably have a question, is it possible to fix this device with your own hands, without contacting a repair shop?

The device and principle of operation of electric kettles

An electric kettle is a household appliance, the design and principle of operation of which can be understood even by a person who knows little about technology. All teapots are arranged in the same way, regardless of the model, and work according to the same scheme. They consist of the following main nodes and elements:

a case, which is also a flask for water (some models of electric kettles have a separate bowl placed in the case);
a heating element in the form of an open spiral, similar to a boiler, located directly at the bottom of the water tank or (like most modern electric kettles) in the form of a disk heating element;
Such a heating element is located at the bottom of the water flask.
On the inside, the disc has a smooth surface
a stand (base) on which there is a connector for connecting a kettle and a power cord for connecting to a household electrical outlet (all modern electric kettles that are cordless have it);
Base available on cordless models only
power connector pads on the bottom of the kettle base, which can be central (like most models) or lateral;
a thermostat used to turn off the kettle when boiling;
This type of thermostat is installed under the button
power buttons.

Today on sale you can find electric kettles with a thermostat, with which you can heat water not only to 100 ° C, but also to any desired temperature, and even maintain this temperature for a certain time. This property is necessary for the correct brewing of various types of tea (black, green, white, red), each of which requires water of different temperatures from 60 to 90 ° C. An electric kettle with a thermostat is an ideal purchase if the family has Small child. Indeed, for the preparation of baby food mixtures, boiling water is not required, and with the help of such a device, you can set the desired temperature. And for adults, repeated boiling of water is highly undesirable if they adhere to a healthy diet.

In this model, the control panel is located on the stand

Naturally, each model of electric kettles has its own design features, but they do not differ fundamentally in terms of design.

The principle of operation of an electric kettle is also quite simple. When heated, the heating element heats the water in the flask until it boils. Steam is supplied through special channels to a bimetallic thermostat plate made of metals with different coefficients of thermal expansion, it, bending, presses on the button lever or opens the contact terminals, disconnecting the device from the mains.

The diagram shows the movement of steam through the channels in the handle, but a tube in the kettle flask itself can also be used for this purpose.

The most common faults

For electric kettles, the following malfunctions are typical:

Failure of the heating element. The cause of the defect is the scale formed on the heating element, as a result of which the transfer of heat to water is difficult, and the spiral itself heats up. Most of all, heating elements of the spiral type are more susceptible to such a breakdown than disk-type heating elements, which take longer to form a critical layer of scale. The reason for the burnout of the heating element can also be a violation of the operating rules, for example, if the kettle is plugged into the network, forgetting to pour water into it.

Broken electric kettle button. Two reasons are possible here - the formation of soot and oxidation on the contacts of the button or a break in the thrust connecting it to the power supply terminals.

Leakage in the housing of the electrical appliance. This malfunction is more typical for kettles with a plastic case, as well as those equipped with a disk heating element. In the first case, a breakdown may be the result of deformation of the kettle from overheating at the place where the heating element is attached, and with disc heaters, the cause is corrosion along the seam of the connection between the disc and the body of the electric kettle. Often the cause of such a breakdown is a worn-out seal or cracked glass of the water level indicator.

Premature shutdown of the appliance. This malfunction is a consequence of scale. The water does not have time to boil, and the heating element has already overheated and the thermostat disconnects the device from the network.

Failure of the thermostat. In the design of electric kettles with a thermostat, there are additional components and parts - a thermometer, temperature sensors, a memory unit, an electronic board and a control panel. The more parts a device has, the lower its reliability and the higher the likelihood of any of them breaking. In teapots with thermostats, the regulator itself most often fails, in which the contacts oxidize or burn.

Breakdowns that allow you to return the electric kettle to the store

You can return a faulty electric kettle to the store during the warranty period, if during this period its significant shortcomings have appeared, namely, malfunctions of the following nature:

irreparable damage;
recurring failure of the same node;
a breakdown that cannot be repaired without disproportionate costs close to the cost of the kettle itself;
a malfunction that takes a long time to resolve, as a result of which the device cannot be used for more than 30 days during the year.

There can be a variety of malfunctions here, but the most serious of them are leaks that are not associated with mechanical damage and a leaky gasket, but that have arisen due to deformation of the housing or damage as a result of corrosive processes.

Failure of the heating element can also be attributed to significant breakdowns, provided that the kettle has been properly operated and there is no scale on the heating element.

Electric kettles are household appliances that are included in the list of technically complex products. Therefore, it is possible to return them back to the store, with a refund of the money paid, only if they are of inadequate quality. When contacting the store with a written claim, you need to indicate a breakdown that often repeats or requires costs. comparable to the cost of an electric kettle.

The seller has the right to offer the buyer to contact the service center, but if the breakdown has not been fixed within 20 days, the store is obliged to return the money or exchange the device for a new one. The seller also has the right to appoint, at his own expense, an examination of the goods, which will determine whether the failure occurred due to the fault of the user or whether it is the cause of a manufacturing defect. In the first case, all costs for the examination must be reimbursed by the buyer. In the event of a defect due to the fault of the manufacturer, you can demand not only a refund, but also compensation for moral damage. Moral damage can be claimed only by a court decision.

Diagnosis of malfunction of electric kettles

To determine the reasons for the breakdown of the electric kettle, you only need a screwdriver, which is necessary for disassembling it, and an electrical measuring device - a multimeter or an avometer. The procedure for diagnosing this device is quite simple. It consists in the sequential ringing of the electric chain of the kettle, starting from the plug connecting it to the electrical outlet, and up to the heating element.

Check by tester

If the electric kettle does not turn on, does not heat up, and does not even light up the operation indication lamp, the diagnosis of the device, no matter how strange it may sound, must be started by checking for voltage in the electrical outlet into which the device is connected. To do this, you can turn on any other known working electrical household appliance to it or measure the voltage with a tester.

If there is voltage in the network, you need to diagnose the kettle itself. This will require:

Check the serviceability of the plug for connecting the appliance, the connecting cord and the contact group on the stand to which the electric kettle is connected. In the ringing mode, having finished one probe of the multimeter with the pin of the plug, with the second probe we alternately touch the contacts on the base connector. As a rule, there are three of them, and they correspond to two conductive wires and a grounding contact, which is closed to the body of the device. On a stand, they can be located in the middle in the form of circles or on the side in the form of a three-fingered connector. On which contact the signal of the device sounds, it corresponds to the pin of the plug, which indicates the integrity of this cable core and contact groups. We repeat the same operation for the second pin on the plug and the ground contact. If the ringing goes on all three lines, then the base is working and can be put aside, starting to diagnose the kettle.
Since the malfunction lies in the electrical appliance itself, you need to remove its bottom cover. To do this, you need to unscrew three screws (sometimes there are more - 4 or 6).
The next step is to ring the power connector terminal block at the base of the kettle. Usually it is combined with a thermostat, and planted on thermal paste. Before unscrewing it, disconnect the cable suitable for it. The left and right contacts of the block, when they are closed to the corresponding elements of the device connector, should ring, respectively, each on its own ring - internal or external. If this does not happen, you need to disassemble the block by removing the bottom plate of the thermostat, and clean the contacts with sandpaper or a needle file, removing carbon deposits and oxidation from them. Along the way, you need to check the availability of contact
After stripping the contacts, the block must be assembled and ringed again. If the defect is fixed, screw it into place.
Next, the operability of the kettle on button is checked. To do this, we touch with one probe of the multimeter to the contact of the wire going to the button, and with the second - to the wire coming from the button to the heating element. When the switch is off, there should be no reaction, and when the button is turned on, the device will beep, symbolizing that there is a circuit, which means that the button is working. Otherwise, it needs to be replaced or repaired.
At the last stage of diagnostics, the health of the heating element is checked. To do this, you need to ring the output contacts of the spiral, to which the wires are connected from the central connector of the stand and from the button. If the ringing goes on, then the spiral is not broken. Finishing one of the outputs of the heating element with its body, you can check whether there is a short circuit of the broken spiral on the body of the heating element. If the device gives a signal, a breakdown on the body takes place, and the heating element is considered faulty.

Video: Diagnostics of an electric kettle with a multimeter

Diagnosis of a kettle with a thermostat

The presence of additional structural elements in electric kettles with a thermostat, compared to conventional appliances that can only boil water, somewhat complicates the diagnosis of devices that are more saturated with details. But the difficulty here can arise only when determining the health of the electronic board and memory unit. However, it is quite easy to determine that the cause of the teapot breakage lies precisely in the thermostat.

When diagnosing kettles that heat water to a certain temperature, there are two options for placing the control panel:

in teapot stand

on the appliance itself (usually on its handle).

Usually electric kettles with adjustable heating temperature have not three contacts in the connector of the base connection unit with the device, but five. Two more contacts for the thermistor are added to the power circuit for the heating element (two cable cores) and the ground contact.

The ringing of a kettle with a thermostat is carried out in the same sequence as for a conventional electric kettle:

First of all, you need to determine which of the contacts on the stand of the device correspond to ground and two cores of the power cable. To do this, in the dialing mode, after finishing one multimeter probe with a pin on the plug, the second one touches the contacts on the stand connector in turn. We repeat a similar operation for the second cable core and grounding.
The remaining two contact rings included in the thermistor circuit must be checked for resistance. The device should show a certain resistance of about 100 kOhm. For other indications (1 or infinity), it can be concluded that there is a malfunction in the thermostat circuit.
If everything is in order with the stand, you need to ring the kettle itself, as already described earlier. When ringing individual circuit elements (power button, heating element, terminal block with which the thermostat is usually combined), you must first disconnect the electronic part of the thermostat and temperature sensors.

Checking the coil of the heating element

Knowing the power for which the electric kettle is designed, you can easily calculate what resistance the spiral of its heating element should be. To do this, first calculate the current strength, which can be found by dividing the power in watts by the mains voltage (220 V). Further, according to Ohm's law, well known to everyone in the school physics curriculum, in order to find the resistance, we divide the voltage in the network by the current strength. For example, for an electrical appliance with a heating element power of 2000 W, the current strength will be 2000 W / 220 V = 9.09 A, and the resistance of the nichrome spiral is 220 V / 9.09 A = 24.20 Ohm.

The resistance of the heating element spiral obtained by calculation should not differ significantly from the actual one. To measure it, you need to remove the bottom cover of the kettle and measure it with a multimeter, setting it to the resistance measurement mode.

How to fix an electric kettle with your own hands

A fairly simple device of electric kettles allows you to fix many of their malfunctions on your own, without contacting service shops. But you can start repairing with your own hands only on the condition that the warranty period for the electrical appliance has already expired. Consider some of the most common problems that can be easily solved if there is a simple tool at home and, without fail, an electrical measuring device.

If the kettle began to leak, you must first of all, establish the place where its tightness is broken. It could be:

leakage through the gasket installed at the junction of the disk heating element with the inner walls of the housing;
water seepage at the place of attachment of an open-type heating element;
flow on the glass of the level gauge, showing to what mark the water is poured into the kettle.
the presence of a crack in the body of the electric kettle.

In the first case, the cause of depressurization of the flask may be a leaky gasket, or scale getting under the gasket. For any of these options, you must:

Remove the bottom cover of the kettle.
Detach the top cover, which is usually held on by latches and can be easily removed.
Dismantle the heating element together with the gasket by squeezing it out by hand.
Having removed the rubber gasket from the disk heating element, rinse the kettle itself, its heating element and the sealing ring well. If the latter has scuffs, tears and excessive wear, the gasket must be replaced with a new one.
Dry the heating element with all parts attached to it well with a hair dryer.
Assemble in the reverse order, and after filling the kettle with water, put it on a dry cloth for 15-20 minutes. If there are no more leaks, we can assume that the defect has been eliminated.

This process can be seen more clearly in the next video.

Video: Eliminating leaks in an electric kettle with a disk heating element

If a leak is found in an electric kettle with a heating element in the form of an open spiral at the place where the heating element is attached, it is necessary:

Remove the bottom cover of the appliance housing, as well as the cover on its handle, to provide access to the heating element fastening nuts.
If the fastener is loose, you need to tighten it and check if the problem is fixed.
If the tightness is not restored by tightening the fasteners, you need to dismantle the top cover of the kettle and, having unscrewed the fastening screws, remove the spiral along with the gasket.
Thoroughly clean the surface of the heating element adjacent to the gasket and the sealing ring itself from scale. If necessary, replace gasket.

How to disassemble a kettle with an open spiral heater and remove the heating element along with the gasket can be seen in detail in the following video.

Video: How to remove a spiral heating element with a gasket from an electric kettle

Leakage of the kettle on the glass of the level gauge may be the result of wear of silicone gaskets or the appearance of microcracks in the plexiglass itself. And if the problem with gaskets is solved quite simply (by replacing them), then to get rid of cracks, you will have to resort to glue.

For gluing plexiglass (or plexiglass), professional glue Acrifix 116 or 117, vinegar essence, moment glue, as well as Сosmofen or Colakril adhesive compositions can be used.

With cracks in the body, it is better to purchase a new kettle, since any glue that you can try will be in contact with water, which is undesirable for health. The process of eliminating leaks on the glass of the level gauge can be seen in the following video.

Video: Eliminating the leakage of the kettle on the glass of the level gauge

The reason that the electric kettle does not turn off when boiling may be:

not closed or loosely closed top cover;
clogging of the hole for supplying steam to the bimetallic plate of the thermostat;
button or thermostat malfunction.

After checking whether the lid is tightly closed, clean the steam outlet with a toothpick, which is located under the lid at the junction of the handle with the body. If the problem persists, you need to remove the bottom cover of the kettle, and then proceed according to the following algorithm:

Remove the bottom cover of the body of the electric kettle, and the cover on its handle. A bimetallic plate, which should, by bending, turn off the button or access to electricity to it is available both on the button and under the terminal box of the kettle, where the thermostat is usually located.
Make sure the integrity of the contacts and their ability to open under the action of a bimetallic plate. If the contacts are stuck to each other, or the pin that should open them is melted, you need to restore the operation of this system, and if it is impossible to fix the breakdown, replace the problematic part - a button or thermostat.
Reassemble the device in reverse order and check if this problem is fixed.

Another problem that may arise during the operation of electric kettles is when the water has not yet boiled, and the device is already turning off. This defect may occur due to scale formed on the heating element, which prevents the transfer of heat to water and heats the coil itself. Overheating of the coil triggers a thermal fuse or thermostat at the base of the kettle. In this case, you need to descale the kettle, for which you can use:

special household chemicals "Antinakipin" or Major Domus;
coca-cola, which contains phosphoric acid;
citric acid at the rate of 1 tbsp. spoon for 500 ml of water;
baking soda 3-4 tbsp. spoons per 1 liter. water.

These solutions should be boiled in a kettle and held for 15-20 minutes, after which clean water should be boiled in it 3-4 times for washing.

If there is no scale on the heating element, you need to check the thermostat contact. It may be too close to the pusher of the bimetal plate, and you just need to bend it a little, as shown in the following video.

Video: What to do if the kettle turns off without boiling

There are times when the kettle does not turn on, which means that in some place there is a break in its electrical circuit. It can be associated with burning and oxidation of contacts. To eliminate the malfunction, you need to find the place of the gap, as it was already described earlier about troubleshooting.

If the electric kettle does not heat the water, and its light is on, this may signal a break in the nichrome spiral of the heating element or the burning of its terminals. In the first case, it will be necessary to replace the heating element, and in the second, cleaning the contacts.

A situation may arise when the button of the electric kettle is not fixed. The cause of such a breakdown is a jumped off, or burst spring. To eliminate the defect, you must:

Remove the lid from the handle by unscrewing the screws under the top lid of the kettle, and prying with a screwdriver, release its latches from the grooves.
Remove the button by disconnecting the wires from it and unscrewing the screw.
Having disassembled the button, put the jumped spring in place.
If the spring is broken, it will be easiest to replace the button with a new one, because it is unlikely that you will be able to find such a spare part.
Assemble the kettle in reverse order.

Disc Heater Replacement

Electric kettles with disc heaters are particularly vulnerable to rust, which corrodes the metal, damaging their surface and breaking the tightness of the appliance. With such a defect, the device is not operational. The only way out is to replace the disk, for which you need:

Remove the bottom of the kettle by unscrewing the screws (in some models it is also held on by latches).
Detach the top cover.
Putting your hand into the kettle, squeeze out the heating element together with the silicone gasket.
Disconnect all components and parts installed on it from the disk.
Connect the terminal block, thermostat and other elements to the new heating element and assemble the kettle in reverse order.

How to replace a coil

To check the health of the spiral heating element, you need to measure its resistance. If the multimeter shows one or infinity, the heating element must be replaced. For this you need:

Remove the bottom, the lid of the kettle and the trim on the handle to get to the heating element fixing screws.
Disconnect lead wires from coil leads.
Unscrew the three screws securing the heating element and remove it from the kettle.
Put a silicone gasket on the new heating element (it can be removed from the burned-out coil if it does not have scuffs and damage) and, having installed it in the mounting hole, tighten it with screws.
Assemble the device in reverse order.

The process of replacing the spiral is clearly shown in the following video.

Video: Replacing the spiral heating element of an electric kettle

How to connect an electric kettle directly

Connecting the electric kettle directly is performed as a temporary measure in case of failure of the power button. If it cannot be repaired, and at the moment there is nothing to replace it with, you just need to disconnect the wires suitable for the button and connect them with a twist. When connected directly, the device will stop automatically turning off, and it must be turned off so that the heating element does not burn out.

An electric kettle is now available to people with different incomes, who can simply buy a new appliance when the old one breaks down. But if at the moment this is not possible, you can easily fix it yourself, without spending money on paying for the services of a repairman.